Taking a Big Step

Organic Exchange looks to shows to promote the greensupply chain

By Heidi Genoist -- Tradeshow Week, 2/28/2005

Las Vegas—The green movement in the tradeshow industry continues topick up steam, with new sustainability initiatives being introducedat two tradeshows already this year.

In both cases, exhibitors have been behind show management'sdecision to include the programs.

Advanstar Communications' MAGICMarketplace, Feb. 14–17 at the Las VegasConvention Center, for the first time welcomed the OrganicExchange, a pavilion to introduce clothing brands and retailers tothe availability of organic options in the supply chain.

The Organic Exchange was also involved in the Green StepsProgram, started this year at VNU Expositions' Outdoor Retailer Winter Market, Jan.29–Feb. 1 at the Salt Palace Convention Center in Salt LakeCity. Green Steps sought to bring recognition of outdoor-industrymanufacturers that employ environmentally conscious practices.

The Organic Exchange is a Berkeley, Calif., nonprofitorganization whose mission is to develop the cultivation and use oforganic fibers. It started 2 1/2 years ago as a grassroots movementamong apparel industry members like Heidi McCloskey, globalsustainability director for Nike.

McCloskey was a pioneer of organic fiber use in the apparelindustry. She pitched the idea of using organic cotton to Nike'ssports tees group, and in 1998 convinced the company to producefour styles of shirts that were 3 percent organic cotton. By thefall of 2002, Nike had launched a 100-percent organic cottontee.

As a longtime apparel industry member (she'd been with Espritbefore Nike), McCloskey was well aware of MAGIC. With her guidance, Organic Exchange President Rebecca Calahan Klein began developing a relationship with the show last year.

At the August MAGIC, the Organic Exchange and Organic Trade Assn. held a seminar on integrating organic fiber into clothing and accessories. More than 100 people showed up — far more than expected.

So, at this February's show, MAGIC opened the door a little wider, giving the group several hundred square feet of lobby space in the LVCC for an awareness-building exhibit in addition to the seminar.

The pavilion featured 45 companies, focusing mainly on brands that have incorporated organic fibers into their apparel lines. Some you would expect: Earth Creations, Ecoland, Green Babies and PrAna. Others, as Nike's involvement suggests, are big beyond their interest in sustainability: Marks & Spencer, Cutter & Buck, Patagonia and Timberland, for example.

In addition, Organic Exchange made sure there were representatives on hand to answer questions about every step in the supply chain — from the farmers who grow pesticide-free cotton, to the spinners that make yarn using chemical-free dye, to the designers who base their creations on organic fabrics.

Visitors to the pavilion could touch samples of final products made from organic materials, everything from makeup pads and hand towels to jeans and sweatshirts.

"Traffic has been unbelievable," said Sandra Marquardt of M&R Organics. "I think a lot of people are coming for the free thong" (made of organic fiber, of course).

She added that the group would be looking at ways to expand the pavilion to other tradeshows, since they present more opportunities to raise awareness across an industry.

"The Organic Exchange is being used as a model by groups that want to do the same thing in other industries, like leather and food," McCloskey said. "It's about systemic change, so we're making it as easy as possible for anybody to just jump right in and start doing it."

Klein also noted that every step in the supply chain is important, but the primary target of the pavilion at MAGIC was clothing brands. "We want the Kenneth Coles, the Pradas," she said. "This is a great way to expand the volume of use."

The group didn't know whether MAGIC would have them back for future shows, but hoped so.

Also participating in the Organic Exchange pavilion at MAGIC was Scott Leonard, marketing and creative director for Indigenous Designs, a maker of natural fiber clothing. Just two weeks earlier, Leonard had also been a key participant in the Green Steps program at Outdoor Retailer.

Unlike the fashion industry, the outdoor clothing and equipment business lends itself to a concern for the environment. Naturally, there are lots of companies in OR that have used sustainable practices for a long time.

"This industry was crying out for some sort of sustainability program at the show," said Leonard, a 10-year exhibitor. So, he and some others approached show management and asked them to embrace a platform for showcasing and supporting environmentally conscious practices.

Green Steps started with a simple concept: Ask each of the companies that has a sustainability program to contribute a minimum $500 sponsorship. For their money, show management would call attention to them, providing a PR opportunity with buyers and press. The money would fund a sustainable initiative at the show.

Fifty-five companies signed up for the program, including some of OR's largest exhibitors: Black Diamond, Ex Officio, Outside Magazine and Simple Shoes. Show management placed a large, green plastic sign in the shape of a footprint on the carpet in front of every Green Steps sponsor's booth. It also highlighted their booths in green on the show map, and gave a full description of their sustainability efforts on the show Web site.

Leonard and some other key participants (including the Organic Exchange) manned a Green Steps booth on the showfloor, where interested attendees could get more information on launching their own green programs. And the group hosted a special WinterGreen Party the opening night of the show, featuring whole food, organic beer and recycled paper products.

The effort paid off for OR too. Green Steps sponsorships helped show management buy electricity from a wind turbine plant outside Salt Lake, so all four days of the show could be powered with renewable energy. It created a 10-percent increase in energy costs, but OR said it was worth it.

"We're hoping this program will grow and become a forum for sustainable business practices in the outdoor industry," said Andy Tompkins, show director. "We're just scratching the surface, but the more we develop relationships with people like Scott (Leonard), the more we can do."