Too Much Beauty for Big Apple to Handle?

Mirror, mirror on the wall, who's the fairest of them all? Apparently the Big Apple.

This year, New York is scheduled to host seven beauty-related tradeshows, according to the Tradeshow Week Data Book. Next year, it'll gain another when One Vision Management launches Global Beauty Exhibition & Conference Oct. 6–8. But does New York need another beauty show?

For Mike Boyce, One Vision's president, the answer is yes. "The major manufacturers in New York didn't feel the market was being served properly," Boyce said. "The manufacturers came to us and said, 'We want an outlet where we can reach the beauty professional.'"

There is already at least one outlet available, however, at Questex Media's IBS New York. Ranked No. 151 on the latest TSW 200, the event's exhibitors are companies that sell products and services to hair stylists and colorists, as well as salon and spa owners. Global Beauty will also feature exhibitors for the salon services industry.

GBEC "will be a mirror image of IBS," said Dana Lupton, group show director for Questex.

But Boyce maintains Global Beauty will be different, starting with whom it will attract and how the quality of attendees will be monitored.

"We're working with manufacturers and other show groups to attract the right people. We're targeting a different level of attendee," he said. "Exhibitors go to an event and sell product, but have no measuring stick. We've entered into an agreement with BPA to audit the show. Everyone will be forced to register."

Caralee Dunbabin, owner of Shear Technology, which exhibits at IBS, also supports the addition of another show in New York. She said the quality of attendees at IBS has decreased, now attracting a lot of B-list professionals who have only been cutting hair for four or five years.

"A show is only as good as the people management brings in, and IBS is not bringing in quality attendees," she said.

Boyce also wants to make the show more cost-effective. Exhibitor costs will be managed through tiered pricing, and multi-day discounts will be offered to attendees.

"The cost for attendees takes money off of the showfloor," Boyce said.

Dunbabin, who exhibits at 12 to 15 shows a year, agrees that the cost of doing a show is high, especially in New York.

"New York shows are the worst," she said. For the Walnut Creek, Calif.-based company, New York shows are the farthest away, plus everything from food and hotels to space rental and drayage is expensive.

"When you go to a show and it's not up to par, it's very disconcerting," Dunbabin said. "But you feel you have to go until something happens."

Although Boyce has some experience with the beauty industry — he worked at IBS for five years — he doesn't have all the answers. To assist him, a 12-person advisory board made up primarily of major manufacturers, distributors, senior-level executives and other tradeshow organizers was formed. Its main purpose is to determine the strategic direction of the event and make sure it's in tune with the industry's needs, Boyce said.

He also has in his corner veteran show producer Lorenz Hassenstein — formerly of PostNewsweek Tech Media and Reed Exhibitions — as company CEO and general manager, as well as fellow IBS veteran Peter Lucibelli as vice president of sales.

While both events are cash-and-carry, stylists don't just attend to buy products; they're also there for the educational component. Boyce said the conference would be free to attendees of Global Beauty.

Dunbabin thinks that education and attendee quality are related. She said that because some shows aren't teaching stylists techniques they can use and take back to the chair, the better stylists decide they don't need to go.

But 25-year beauty industry and IBS veteran Barry Fletcher thinks that next to the Ringling Bros. and Barnum and Bailey Circus, IBS is the greatest show on earth.

"It's been one of the more enlightening shows," said the former attendee turned vendor. "It brings in good international education and has a large following."

So with IBS at the beginning of the year, and Global Beauty in October, is there enough room in New York for both to succeed?

"It's a huge market, as long as you don't put the events on top of each other. IBS is an established show. We're not looking to go head-to-head," Boyce said. "We talked to different clients, and everyone seemed open to the fall."

Dunbabin, who has past experience working with Boyce, has faith in the new show.

"It will depend on who they can get as backers, but I think they have a pretty good shot of pulling it off," Dunbabin said. "We'll continue to be at both until one ceases to exist."

Fletcher welcomes the competition, saying it's better if one show doesn't have a monopoly, and also hopes it'll drive down costs.

"I think the companies will support both in the beginning and then choose," he said. "It'll shake up IBS and make them aware of the needs of their participants."

Lupton isn't worried.

"It's a 90-year-old show versus a new show with no history," she said. She also recognized that the industry doesn't need two shows, especially in New York: "We don't need more shows. We want to see the existing ones succeed."

Boyce projects the inaugural show will have 375 exhibiting companies in 115,000 net square feet and draw 20,000 attendees to the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center.

IBS reported to TSW that its 2005 show had 602 exhibitors in 175,000 net sq. ft. and attracted 49,618 attendees to the same venue.